Choosing Your Ideal Corset Style

Miss Deadly Red wears the Rosette pink Seirian Luxe

Image credit- Sally Sparrow Photography and Miss Deadly Red

I understand the struggle. You’ve fallen in love with a corset style and are eager to make it your own. But in the back of your mind, a niggling doubt; how is that going to sit on my full hips? What about my petite torso length? We’re always on hand to help with any questions you have but here is a quick quide to our standard size styles* and how to choose the best one for your needs.

*Naturally all our bespoke corsets are made through a consultation process which would deal with your unique build by starting from scratch with your figure as the canvas.

Petite Torso/ Short body

If you find that a lot of “OTR” (off the rack) corsetry digs in under your breasts or into your thighs when you sit down then the chances are that your torso is shorter than the industry standard. This can be the case even if you’re average height or above! It’s all about the spacing between your waist to bust and waist to hips. If you look at our individual corset listings we do put the most important corset lengths at the bottom of the longer description as you scroll down. You can use this to double check a style’s suitability for your exact figure but usually short bodied customers benefit from a waspie style like these

The Seirian and Seirian Luxe are ideal for the most petite frames as they measure just 5.5cm above the waist at the centre front, but the Adara and Eirlys are both still only 11.5cm above and below the waist at centre front and will be suitable for many figures.

 

Extra Curvy Hips/ Hourglass Figure

If you’ve been blessed with a full hourglass figure you may find that many standard size corsets are not roomy enough for comfort. Do remember that we are happy to tweak measurements on our corsets for a small fee if you really want a certain corset style but we have designed something especially for your needs! Our Vala Edwardian underbust is widely acclaimed as our most comfortable style yet thanks to the distinctive generous hip spring that takes the pressure off your curves and really makes your waistline pop! This style also features a dished rib shape to leave more room for your ribcage if you find that is typically a pressure point for you.

The Vala is waiting to smooth your curves in blissful comfort!

Long Torso

As a taller woman I know that sometimes things sitting at the wrong height can be uncomfortable and also unflattering! Our full underbust styles are cut cleverly to suit figures with an average to long torso. That’s not to say that our waspies aren’t suitable for you, but if you’re looking for greater coverage then these styles will be your friends!

The Perle Luxe, Perle in black mesh and Perle in ivory mesh all use the same base pattern which has a high hip (ideal for more movement) and a slightly higher length above the waist than our Vala. If you also want more hip coverage and room for generous curves then our Vala is the perfect choice for you!

Athletic/ Less Curvy Figures

It can be so annoying to find a corset that is comfortable and flattering at the waist but isn’t in contact with the hips or underbust! We can check over your natural measurements against our detailed sizing charts if you get in touch but don’t despair if they aren’t perfect for your sizing as we are happy to tweak the measurements on our patterns for a small fee! This will give you the style you want most with a close fit you will love. However many clients find that waspies will fit better than full underbusts without alterations as they don’t extend to the fuller parts of underbust and hips, so we can look over those sizes with you as well.

Looking For An Everyday Corset

Generally speaking, a less dramatic corset style tends to be a good everyday choice, our Perle or Adara shapes are ideal! However the Perle is made from polyester mesh which is quite delicate compared to traditional corsetry fabrics and can increase perspiration so is not the healthiest thing to wear against your skin consistently. But we are always happy to make a standard size corset in your custom choice of fabric for a small fee which will vary depending on the fabric choice. But our Perle made in a cotton coutil fabric would answer a lot of requirements for a regular use corset! Though not strictly an everyday corset you may also like to look at our Eirlys waspie, made in silk mesh which is an excellent lightweight choice for summer tightlacing!

Creation Stories- Orchid Memorabilia

Creation Stories scrapbook with image of finished corset.

I’m really excited to talk to you about our Creation Stories project. This idea was born from a wedding gift for dear friends who asked me to make their bridal corset, and requested photos of the work in progress, to get a glimpse into the construction and process behind their garment. I decided that I would go one better, and make them an album, mixing creative writing and photography to show them how I work, and some of the stages that might surprise them.

Scrapbbok album featuring an image of corsetry tools

Creation Stories album with image of a corset being made

As I saw things coming together I realised the potential for my other clients, many of whom are deeply interested in the “behind-the-scenes” world in the studio. And I can see why- corsetry is a world apart from dressmaking and other sewing projects. It blends engineering, tailoring, architecture and uses a mystifying array of archaic tools! And each project demands something different. It might be our terrifying looking metal punch or our oddly shaped and bent applique scissors for fine lace work. So I thought why not offer our clients the chance to have their own Creation Stories?

Creation Stories album with binding image

A linen covered album, sealed with a wax stamp, with delicate tissue paper separating handwritten notes by the maker, and photos of all the different stages that brought your treasured garment from cloth on a roll to an intricately stitched second skin, threaded through with steel and made with great care. You might be surprised at the techniques and tools that helped us make your bespoke corset!

Scrapbbok album with image of a finished corset on a mannequin

So from now on, if you’d like a Creation Stories memory book to document the making of your bespoke corset you only have to ask! Each one will be as unique as your commission, featuring the tools and processes used in the creation of your corset. Prices on request. If your loved one has commissioned a special corset for their wedding day or a special event then what could be a more thoughtful surprise gift to present them with!

Pricing, Projects, and Christmas!

Green silk Edwardian underbust

Christmas Orders

Each year, the last order dates for Christmas sneak up on me! We’re skipping merrily through October and then suddenly I’m all booked up till Christmas and I don’t know where the time has gone. I had plans for a gift guide this year but by the time it was appropriate to post it (I hate bringing these things up too early!) We had so few spaces left for realistic on-time delivery that it seemed rather pointless. To be clear. at this point you are welcome to order but we can no longer guarantee that your order will be be completed in time for last post dates. Smaller items like chokers or harnesses are ok but corsets and lingerie will be sent in January! We still have gift vouchers though, if you missed the boat!

Close up of suspenders on Perle Luxe
Perle Luxe

Pricing

However there is still a reason to get your orders in now if you can, as in January we will be raising our prices by around 10% across bespoke and made to order pieces. I have mentioned this in passing on Social Media but for those of you who have found us more recently I have put this off for over 3 years now, despite our costs going up. I’m reluctant to raise prices as I know how much of an investment corsetry is for our clients, many of whom are not wealthy but are passionate about supporting our work. Please know that we truly appreciate the choices you make! But I trust that the craftsmanship and care we take with our client’s requests will continue to speak to the true value of what we do. Please feel welcome to place orders through the online shop or contact us for your bespoke requests if you want to secure your 2018 prices. Remember that bespoke quotes given now will only be valid until the end of December, and you will need to pay your deposit before then to secure the quote.

Ivory Flame shot by Gill McGowan

Looking Ahead

I’m looking forward to 2019 and working with clients old and new! I intend to spend the Christmas break (21st December to the 7th January) thinking about the creative direction of the business. I love what we do but I feel that I’ve lost some focus on designing in what I can only describe as an “authentic” way. The pieces I’ve made that get the greatest response from you are the ones where I was really digging into my personal aesthetic and influences but somewhere along the road last year I feel that I fell into a bit of a ditch of trying to predict the market instead of being true to my own instincts. I’ve never been a commercially minded person (despite the need to make a living!) and to me this really is an art form, it’s my main creative outlet and it still brings me so much joy. So I want to have the bravery to return to that scary, vulnerable place where you face the public with a piece of your soul, asking those people to join you on a journey where you haven’t quite picked an end destination but you have planned a scenic route. And you packed cookies.

As always, thankyou to everyone who has been with us so far, you are great travel companions! May your holiday be happy and filled with loved ones, whatever you choose to celebrate.

Beth

 

I Capture The Castle – 2018 Summer Daydreams

Ivory Flame and Gingerface model in ribbon corsets

“I write this sitting in the kitchen sink” The opening line of my favourite book, “I Capture The Castle”. If you haven’t read it, you must. It’s like drinking a mug of hot chocolate while catching up with your best friend. It is comfort and sensory overwhelm and nostalgia for something half lived in another time. It also captures the essence of my childhood summers, a drowsy heady heat with a soundtrack of somnolent bees, exultant birdsong and the scent of bluebells resonating right to the back of your head. So when my favourite photographer Sally Sparrow asked me to provide wardrobe for a Summer photography workshop, I decided to a) start from scratch and create something new and b) base it around the moments of this wonderful book that typify an British summer in the countryside. Timeless, romantic, full of fleeting beauty and moments that no camera can preserve.

Nightswimming

Model wears a corset with wings, stroking a horse
Gingerface model shot by Gill McGowan

I Capture The Castle has a magical scene where, following a dinner party, the guests decide to swim the moat around the castle ruins. They float through the silver moonlit water, while Handel’s “Water Music” drifts out of the windows above. I wanted to create a piece that held that sense of etheral freedom, of drifting, the light transforming the colours into misty otherwordly visions. It was also a chance to play with something I’ve wanted to create for some time- wings that seem to fold around the corset like a resting bird.

Midsummer Rites

Ivory Flame in a blue corset
Ivory Flame shot by Gill McGowan

As Cassandra prepares to see in the Solstice with her own “pagan” rites, she gathers wild flowers from the woods, including bluebells. My childhood home is at the base of a beautiful bluebell hill which becomes a haven of ambrosial scent for a few weeks a year. You don’t really notice the perfume of a bluebell until you walk amongst them in their masses, and suddenly, every breath becomes a delicate, sensuous worship of the season. The corset I created to capture this uses precious Sophie Hallette lace in a staggered pattern to play with a different way of creating an organic flow within the design. I wanted something at once vivid and hazy, already half a memory.

Ivory Flame in a blue corset
Ivory Flame shot by Gill McGowan

 

Cassandra

Ivory Flame wearing a silk print ribbon corset
Ivory Flame shot by Steven Riley

“It seems to me now that the whole day was like an avenue leading to a home I had loved once but forgotten, the memory of which was coming back so dimly, so gradually, as I wandered along, that only when my home at last lay before me did I cry: “Now I know why I have been so happy!” Naturally there had to be a corset dedicated to the main character! I used botanic print silks and layers of lace in blush, golds and neutral tones to capture something nostalgic, of another time, a corset for a nature loving English rose!

Model wears white dress and a corset
Ivory Flame shot by Sally Sparrow

Topaz

Model wears corset and flowing skirt on a wood pile
Gingerface shot by Sally Sparrow

Everyone is allowed at least two favourite characters in a novel, and Topaz is my second. An artist’s muse who stalks the hills naked to commune with nature. She is so affected in her manners, but at her heart is generous, fiercely loving and loyal. A corset that represented her had to be bold, striking, full of heart, I chose colours of golden yellow and smoky topaz, made with botanical print silk ribbons and green gold lace. Bohemian, decadent and full of flourish.

Two models wear corsets in a corn field.
Ivory Flame and Gingerface shot by Roj Smith

 

I look forward to creating more photos with the corsets! Unfortunately I smashed my camera at the photoshoot so it may be a while till I can take any but these pieces will be available to hire! Or indeed, you could commission your own midsummer daydream! What would you choose to encapsulate the season?

I close on the final words of I Capture The Castle-“There is only one page left to write on. I will fill it with words of only one syllable. I love. I have loved. I will love.”

Credits- All gowns and skirts by Katherine Davidson, models and photographers are all credited on each image

Close up of ribbon corset with flowers

 

New Style- The Eirlys Silk Mesh Waspie

Eirlys silk mesh waspie

Eirlys is now live in our online store! You can claim yours here.

Ivory silk mesh underbust corset
Ivory silk mesh underbust corset.

Silk Mesh- What Are The Benefits?

Our bespoke clients will already know the benefits of silk mesh corsetry. It is supremely breathable and helps you regulate your temperature in hot weather. It’s slight “give” means that it flexes with you as you breathe and, for those of us used to solid fabric that holds us so tightly, it can feel like you’re barely wearing a corset at all! But our construction means that this corset will hold you curves, cinch your waist and provide a flattering, enhanced figure you will want to show off. It also makes the perfect stealthing corset!

So after a lot of interest on social media, it seemed like it was time to make silk mesh available for our standard size clients to try out! The Eirlys is available in black or ivory silk with your choice of zip or busk fastening, though we can also provide a light golden beige mesh in cotton rather than silk, which we will be adding to the site when time allows to make a sample! If you’d prefer this option just contact us.

front of Eirlys silk mesh waspie

Is The Eirlys Right For Me?

I have noticed a lot of brides to be choosing our standard size corsets for their bridal shapewear, and truly, this is the ultimate under-dress corset. When made with a zip front fastening (or no front fastening at all) it will sit discreetly under clothing and give you the curves you want without discomfort for those unused to corsetry, and without adding bulk beneath your gown. This is also great for tightlacers who prefer to “stealth” or wear their corsets beneath their clothing without detection!

Something that has introduced a lot of our regular waist training clients to silk mesh is it’s suitability for night time waist training! For those who sleep in their corsets, different considerations play a part- for instance, wanting something that will let their skin breathe, that won’t make them overheat and disrupt sleep, and if you’re a wriggler, something that allows good movement! For this, a natural mesh waspie is ideal. It ticks every box!

The only people who won’t be especially taken with the Eirlys are those who want a really firm hug from their corsets, or those looking to train a wasp waisted rib shape. The slight movement in the silk means it doesn’t really compress like a coutil corset would, and this means it moulds more to your rib and hip shape than a coutil corset which is more capable of moulding you!

We hope you’ll love this new style- although it’s perfect for Summer use, it really is an all year round treasure, and a wardrobe staple with a simple elegance that you will love to wear.

Do you have any questions? We’d love to hear from you, just email us at beth@orchidcorsetry.co.uk

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