Orchid Corsetry Postcards

Photo Story: Studio Life

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studio life

When I think about it, studio life is really my happy place! It’s an arena of challenge and small victories, layering unique aesthetics, trial and error, and midnight eureka moments! It is buckets of tea, contemplative practices, refinement and continual development and learning. I feel so lucky to walk up the stairs to my busy, often messy and creatively chaotic workspace every day! So as I look ahead to the businesses thirteenth birthday I thought it would be nice to share a little glimpse into working practice in the studio, illustrated with photography from Sam Irvine. These photos were actually taken in my previous studio but very little has changed apart from the view from the window!

Cutting Out

You never quite get past the excitement and mild anxiety of marking and cutting a new piece of luxurious cloth. It’s the moment of no return, the start of your adventure. Many of my corsets are formed from two, three, or even four different layers of cloth, an elegant fashion layer of vibrant textured silk or smooth, cool satin. Robust cotton, woven as densely as can be to support the tension of the garment, and a light soft lining to protect the skin. Each must be cut and marked individually, layered and stitched to act as one unit, strength, beauty and comfort combined.

Inserting The Busk

Corsetry is full of tools, components and materials that are completely unique to the craft. The busk is one of my favourite examples. You’ll never find this remarkably simple and effective item anywhere other than in a corsetiere’s kit bag! It was developed in the industrial revolution and remains mostly unchanged, bar a few upgrades such as a glittery finish or a smooth rust proof coating to the steel. The main reason I love it so much is that choosing the correct busk type is crucial to the comfort and fit of a corset. You may need a spoon busk to smooth and support a post partum stomach, a flexible busk with a little reinforcement for a slender figure without much waist reduction. Whatever your requirements, there’s a transformative busk for you!

Stitching

There’s something very meditative about spending a lot of time at the sewing machine- you have to remain focused on your task but the rhythm of the steady stitch, the hum of the motor, the timing of easing a pin out just before the needle hits it is quite ritualistic and draws you into a reverie of it’s own. My machine is nearly 50 years old and she doesn’t look so fancy these days, but she’s been my reliable friend since the first days of the business and we continue to take care of each other.

Pressing

Though it may look like it’s “just ironing” pressing is one of the quieter arts of studio life. It has an array of trusty tools, untreated wood “clappers” “tailors anvils” and sawdust filled “hams” help you to compress the steamed cloth into sharp lines or set into rounded curves, letting it slowly cool under the weight before it can be moved. This step can’t be hurried, and when given time, it transfigures flat cloth into devastating hourglass curves.

 

Handsewing

I always finish my bespoke projects by handsewing the bias binding closed at the top and bottom edge of the corset. This final stage of attention and care is one of those indefinable elements that elevates a piece of work to looking precious, and different to something mass produced. This is a labour of patience. It can only be done with time and care so I put on an audiobook, or an album I’ve been waiting to listen to, and absorb it as stitch by stitch, the project draws to a close.

Studio life this week revolves around working on two new photoshoot samples for a Sally Sparrow workshop in between your commissions! The time pressure is on but it’s exciting to be trying out a few ideas that I’ve been working on behind the scenes! I hope your week is filled with creativity and happiness.

Postcards From The Orchid Corsetry Studio- February 2015

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Black mesh lingerie set in a box.

In the postbag from the Orchid Corsetry studio this month- shows, shoots and final touches.

It has been nothing if not action packed this month! Alongside reworking elements of the lingerie range to fine-tune fit and elegance, we were busy taking part in a catwalk event in aid of Severn Hospice, a wonderful organisation in Shropshire that is in constant need of support in order to continue it’s good work. Alongside Shrewsbury based designer Lyuba Carpenter and milliner Laura Cathcart, we presented an evening of high class couture, showcasing casual tailoring, evening wear and bridal. You can see our beautiful model Rhiannah wearing our ivory silk Edwardian underbust corset in this month’s images, and get a flavour of the evening! We were delighted with the funds raised by the evening and hope that all who attended enjoyed themselves.

The end of February also saw us setting off for Birmingham with a suitcase full of corsetry representing months of work and planning, ready to shoot with Miss Miranda and Julian Kilsby! The events of the day will require their own post complete with the soon to be released images, however for now, we can share some of the behind the scenes footage from a day that went exceptionally well. My experience of photoshoots is that so much hangs in the balance, and expectations are high. It can be a pressured environment in which there may have to be compromises as the realities of time intervene in our visions, however having a great team makes these elements manageable, and helps to over-ride my niggling concerns with confidence in a greater overall result. As a perfectionist I am rarely entirely satisfied with the work I bring to a shoot, but thanks to the magic brought to the day by Miranda and Julian I can look back and feel content that we have created something beautiful and exciting. I eagerly anticipate releasing the collection for your enjoyment!

Grey lace "Clouds" bralette
An image of our “Clouds” bralette on a mannequin, made in delicate grey corded lace with halterneck and cross-over back straps.
Black mesh lingerie set in a box.
One of my favourite sets of lingerie from this collection- “Dusk” made in daring but elegant sheer mesh with lace borders and keyhole-back panties. Seen with our new branded lingerie boxes!
Model wearing ivory corset and feather stole.
From back stage at the catwalk event, the beautiful Rhiannah is wearing our ivory and sage Edwardian underbust with a feather stole and lace skirt.
Six corsets and lingerie sets waiting to be packed.
The day before the shoot all was unnervingly organised, with every outfit from the new collection laid out on the studio table, ready to be packed up and taken to Birmingham!
Model wearing a marine and ivory silk underbust corset with ivory silk lingerie.
A glimpse from behind the scenes, with Miss Miranda in our “En Régate” set. A 12 panel underbust corset in marine and ivory silk, worn with matching ivory silk lingerie and harness.
Model wearing ivory sheer corset and lingerie.
Another behind the scenes shot of Miss Miranda wearing our “First light” 14 panel underbust corset with ivory “Dusk” lingerie. First light is made in a filmy ivory mesh overlaid with silk boning accents and shimmering beaded lace.

Postcards From The Orchid Corsetry Studio- January 2015

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Detail shot of the marine and ivory silk "En Regate" underbust corset.

In the postbag from the Orchid Corsetry studio this month- New Year’s goals, plans under way, and the big reveal begins.

As promised, the new year has seen us beginning to trail glimpses of the new collection of corsetry before the official release of SS15, including the first views of our upcoming lingerie range which has us really excited and extremely busy making plans for alternative colours available and refining the finishing touches. At first, the underwired bra will be available in sizes 32A-38D, with a flexibility on back size and sister sizing of cups due the styling of the piece but we are asking you to get in touch with us if your needs are not catered to this season so we can judge demand for future releases. We are aware that fuller busted women often feel disappointed that more brands don’t provide for them, and operating as an independent designer means that we are more challenged than the “big names” to provide a wide range but we always consider you, and endeavor to please wherever possible.

January has always been a time when we hear from our waist training regulars, in search of a new goal or aesthetic, but also when we meet a new crowd of eager tightlacers, ready to make their first steps towards bringing corsetry into their lives. The new year started with a bang, and below you can see one of the classic waist training underbusts that have gone to join their new owner this month. If you are considering your own waist training journey, you may find this article helpful.

A beige coutil training corset.
A beautiful silhouette makes this everyday training corset an exceptional piece for any collection. This is made for a client looking for discreet wear beneath clothing on a regular basis, and everything about it is tailored towards invisibility and a seamless integration into your wardrobe.
Detail shot of the marine and ivory silk "En Regate" underbust corset.
First up from SS15, “En Regate” is a 12 panel underbust corset cobwebbed with graphic flowing lines that interlock and wind intimately around the body. An Orchid signature piece of cool contemporary expression.
A close up of Orchid Corsetry's strap-back bondage bra
We will be offering colour variants on our new lingerie collection, and the fresh marine tones used in our “En Regate” corset will also be available in a rich ebony black silk, matched with gold fixings. This underwired, strap-back plunge bra is all about sleek lines, firm structures and suggestions of elegant bondage.
Grey coutil waspie with blue lace detail.
“Clouds Over Stormy Skies” is a minimalist, structured waspie made in soft grey coutil with flashes of indigo Leavers lace and blue central stitching on the double boning channels that run across the surface of this corset. Accompanying lingerie will echo the cool grey tones and the delicacy of the lace.
Close up of the new underbust corset "First Light""
“First Light” responds to the current barely-there cellophane trend. A 14 panel underbust made in sheer mesh with ivory silk accents and drapes of fresh, sparkling beaded lace that lend clarity to an otherwise soft and misty piece.
A black cupped overbust corset on a mannequin.
And last but not least, we have a sample cupped overbust we made for one of our mannequins in the studio. A simple piece to showcase the architecture of the corset, made in black boutonniere coutil with subtle tulle lace softening the bust and hip lines of the corset.

Postcards From The Orchid Corsetry Studio- December 2014

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A front view from a pink silk locking collar.

In the postbag from the Orchid Corsetry studio this month- surrendering the keys, buckling up, trials and tests, and silhouettes at sunset.

December has been a month dedicated to pushing ahead with work on our SS15 photo shoot, and we were thrilled to have the four main pieces of corsetry completed and waiting for their accompanying lingerie and accessories as we close for the year. January will now be much more relaxed, with plenty of time for the waist training kits that will be starting our clients on their 2015 goals. We will begin to showcase the key looks already completed throughout January so stay tuned for the first views!

We also have a more extensive view of the collar we shared at the end of last month, which was a cherished project that gained a lot of interest from clients old and new! Projects like this give us a great opportunity to showcase another side of our aesthetics and to be playful with materials, something that will always feed back into our more classic pieces.

Black chantilly lace applique on a dusky rose satin.
A first glimpse of the work going into SS15 piece “Silhouettes at Sunset”-Chantilly lace being pinned into place, ready for hand sewing.
A front view from a pink silk locking collar.
A pink silk collar with lock-on lead and black lace and ribbon detailing.
Back view of locking collar
A double locking buckle finishes this collar, which is a perfect blend of feminine softness and steel hardware.
A close-up from a blue ribbon corset.
Midnight blue satin and grosgrain are layered in this ribbon corset, an “in-progress” shot showing the hand basting stitches that help create neat, sharp lines.
A toile being fitted to a mannequin.
A visit from a fellow couturier, Lisa Nelson, resulted in some impromptu draping on the stand, creating a special something for our wasp-waisted mannequin Genevieve! More to come soon.
Keys in an Orchid Corsetry box.
“The Keys To The Kingdom” A very special parcel, wrapped so that the keys are the first thing to be presented to the new owner.

Postcards From The Orchid Corsetry Studio- November 2014

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A pair of lace panties mid construction.

In the postbag from the Orchid Corsetry studio this month- Journeying through the morning mists, sketches and concepts taking wing and the most intimate of garments taking form.

What a month! This has seen preparations for next years shoot becoming a reality as final designs are put to paper for our SS15 theme of “En Plein Air”, as toiles are conceived and fitted to our beautiful model Miss Miranda and accompanying lingerie is created. This process is always more intricate and organic than I am prepared for but as the years have gone by I have grown to relish the flexibility and responsiveness that working on a collection like this demands. It is refreshing to have a brief that we can distort and build upon as the lines of the body dictate to the eye.

There is a little something different in the outgoing mail this month as well, an opportunity to work with a client on the most personal garment, loaded with meaning and symbolism and designed to intoxicate the senses of the wearer. It was an honour to be chosen for such a personal and special piece.

Sketches of corset designs for SS15.
After much deliberation and planning we have narrowed our choices down to 6 looks for our SS15 shoot. This is the largest collection (including lingerie) that we’ve ever worked on, and I feel it will be a strong base for us to showcase our latest ideas and practices. A lot of hard work lies ahead, and every minute will be worth it.
A waist training underbust corset in black coutil.
A smart and sleek waist training underbust in our Edwardian style, made in glossy black tulip coutil to kick-start a client’s new tightlacing program.
A sketch of a cupped overbust corset.
We are currently working on building up a book of sketches and ideas for clients to browse through when visiting us at the studio. Here is an excerpt from the cupped overbust section, where we were playing with ideas for mesh corsets.
A pair of lace panties mid construction.
A great pleasure of working on a shoot is the chance to try your hand at something different, and building up my lingerie skills with some panties has been a lot of fun! This lace was begging for a special project, and I think it has found it’s place.
A view across the Hertfordshire countryside from a train.
Taken as we sped through the clearing morning mists on the Hertfordshire countryside on the way to London, fitting a series of corset toiles and underwear to Miss Miranda.
Close up of a pink silk collar with double locking buckle.
A very special piece indeed. This close-up shows the double locking buckle on a collar and lead set for a client who is planning another ambitious project with us for next year. These buttonholes will neatly slip over the locking loops, ready to fastened with a silver padlock when the time is right.